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| Second try, 100% digital zoom, July 8, 2026 ~ Nikon D780 - AF-S Nikkor 200-500 f5.6 G ED VR |
Notes on second try: Set the aperture wide open to start at f5.6. 4:11a this Thurs. I set the alarm for 4a, the camera is all set. I will focus at infinity on a bright star first then shoot the ISS wide open and then stopped down to see if the lens sharpness improves. No iPhone video, I’m hoping to get the shot and put the camera down and back to bed before work. Practice makes perfect. Wish me luck…
Much better. Not going back to bed.
Hand held in the dark, no flashlight, no tripod, manual focus, no focus assist, definitely learning what to do. 18,000 mph, two hundred and fifty miles away by feel. I had a hard line two minute window to take the picture, the success came with what I knew.
I’m learning.
It’s time to improve my tripod and focusing technique.
I took a total of 60+ shots. Half were of the moon before and after the pass. I used the moon for nothing, all shots were just for fun.
I believe my best work will include much more detail. I have an idea what I need to do. Now I just have to stick to the plan.
1. Use the tripod 2. Use Live View and focus peaking if the moon is available 3. Use the remote release a. the mirror is up and my hands aren’t inducing camera shake, everything is optimized for detail capture.
Source the Teleconverter, rent one first. No need to buy, the Teleconverter will not help for 95% of the use for this lens. I am adapting this lens to take pictures of the ISS…
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| The moon was out so I just took a picture because I already had my camera out |
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| My first try, 100% digital zoom, July 7, 2026 ~ Nikon D780 - AF-S Nikkor 200-500 f5.6 G ED VR |
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| Camera settings, you can barely see the ISS on the image. |
Notes on my first try: Practice. I waited until an hour before to set the camera up and struggled with exposure compensation. With Auto ISO off, the exposure compensation - | + serves as a light meter indicator. I had to use AI to read up on it. There was more but it only matters to me. I’m still learning each aspect of the camera. I didn’t use live view, the ISS was moving so fast and I didn’t use a tripod. This is hand held. The ISS appears as a tiny point of light, what you see above is electronically zoomed in 100%. So I’ll work on settings and focus and I’ll rent the Teleconverter as described below.
The top image from July 7th is digitally zoomed in all the way from the same image as the lens data and circled in red ISS. As you can see, it’s just a pin point. Shooting live view with a tripod and digitally zoomed in on the screen is just to difficult for me at this time. I shoot so much through the viewfinder that I’m just going to do it hand held until I am comfortable then move to a tripod, live view, mirror up with a remote shutter release.
July 7th pass with the iPhone 16 Pro.
I’m not a big fan of AI (artificial intelligence) but it is nice when you can make it work to help you with your own creativity. One of the ways that I learn about photography is to follow my interests and to create challenges for myself in that interest. I want to photograph the International Space Station. I know it’s going to be an exercise in understanding how to set up my camera. I already know how to track the ISS from my Ham Radio experience. I’ll use an app on my iPhone or iPad to predict the time and place. It’s just the actual settings and technique in capturing the image that I need help with. I looked to the internet and it’s already been done with the camera and lens that I own. There is one additional piece of equipment that I don’t have but I do have some experience with a manual focus teleconverter. This lens can use a AF-S electronic teleconverter but with some limitations. I’m going to study what it takes to do it and in this study, it’s how I learn my camera and the techniques.
Apparently the AF-S Nikkor 200-500 f5.6 G ED VR is a very capable lens. These images (social media) are examples of what I want to do. There is enough information within this page for me to get started and here I will detail my notes and experiences.
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Nikon D780 + Nikon 200-500 f5.6 + AF-S TC-14E-III
You do not need to physically modify your teleconverter. The Nikon AF-S TC-14E III is officially compatible with the Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR. You can mount them together and use autofocus on compatible Nikon Z-series cameras with an FTZ adapter. However, the combination results in an f/8 maximum aperture, which creates functional limitations. [1, 2, 3, 4]
Compatibility and the f/8 Issue
Because the 200-500mm lens is an f/5.6 lens, adding the 1.4x teleconverter costs one stop of light, bringing the maximum aperture to f/8. [1, 2] DSLR Autofocus: On traditional Nikon DSLRs, autofocus is only supported at f/8 or wider, and typically only using the center focus point. You will likely experience autofocus hunting in low-light conditions. [1]
You do not need to physically modify your teleconverter. The Nikon AF-S TC-14E III is officially compatible with the Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR. You can mount them together and use autofocus on compatible Nikon Z-series cameras with an FTZ adapter. However, the combination results in an f/8 maximum aperture, which creates functional limitations. [1, 2, 3, 4]
Compatibility and the f/8 Issue
Because the 200-500mm lens is an f/5.6 lens, adding the 1.4x teleconverter costs one stop of light, bringing the maximum aperture to f/8. [1, 2] DSLR Autofocus: On traditional Nikon DSLRs, autofocus is only supported at f/8 or wider, and typically only using the center focus point. You will likely experience autofocus hunting in low-light conditions. [1]
Mirrorless Cameras: If you use this combination on a Nikon Z-mount mirrorless body (like a Z6 or Z7) via the FTZ adapter, the autofocus system continues to function at f/8, though it will still be slower than using the lens natively. [1]
Optical Performance
Teleconverters magnify both the subject and any flaws in the lens. While you will get 280-700mm of reach, users in forums like Backcountry Gallery report mixed results: the sharpness can become soft, especially for distant subjects or birds in flight. To achieve acceptable sharpness, you often need to stop the lens down further (e.g., to f/11), which requires bright, direct sunlight or a very high ISO. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Focus Hunting: Even though those 11 points are rated to focus down to f/8, the 200-500mm f/5.6 is inherently a slow-focusing lens. Adding a teleconverter means autofocus will hunt significantly in low light, shade, or heavy overcast. [1, 2, 3, 4]
Photographing the International Space Station (ISS) with a Nikon D780, TC-14E III, and the 200-500mm lens requires an approach completely different from normal photography. At 700mm, you are aiming to capture a tiny, hyper-bright target traveling at roughly 17,500 mph (28,000 km/h). [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Because the ISS moves across the sky in just a few minutes, you cannot rely on automated camera behavior.[1, 2]
1. Focus Setup (Critical Step)
You cannot use autofocus for this task. The f/8 restriction causes the camera to hunt, and by the time it locks on, the station will have passed. [1, 2, 3]
Fine-Tuning: Turn on Live View, zoom in digitally to the maximum level on your LCD screen, and manually turn the focus ring until the star or lunar crater is perfectly sharp. [1, 2]
Lock It: Once focused, do not touch the focus ring again. You can use a piece of gaffer tape to hold the focus ring securely in place so it does not shift when you point the camera upward.
2. Exposure Strategy (The "Sunny 16" Target)
Even though the sky is pitch black, the ISS is in full, direct sunlight. It acts like a highly reflective mirror made of solar panels and white modules. If you trust your camera's automatic light meter, it will see the dark sky, overexpose the shot, and turn the ISS into a blurry white streak. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Aperture: f/8 (your maximum physical limit with the teleconverter).
Shutter Speed: 1/2500s to 1/3200s. This ultra-fast speed is required to freeze the orbital motion and eliminate motion blur at 700mm.
ISO: Start at ISO 400 or 800. Adjust slightly depending on how high the ISS is in the sky (it is brightest when directly overhead). [1, 2, 3]
3. Tracking and Capturing
There are two primary ways to physically capture the pass with your 700mm setup:
Method A: Transit Photography (Easiest & Sharpest)
Instead of chasing the station across the sky, wait for it to cross directly in front of the Moon or Sun (a transit).[1, 2, 3, 4, 5] Use tools like the Transit-Finder Website to calculate exactly when and where a transit will happen near you.
Frame the Moon, set your D780 to Continuous High (CH) drive mode, and hold down the shutter button a few seconds before the exact calculated transit time. [1, 2, 3, 4]
Method B: Manual Tracking (Requires Practice)
If you want to track it during a standard night pass, a heavy tripod head will restrict your movement too much. Loosen your tripod head completely or use a sturdy monopod.
Turn off the lens's Vibration Reduction (VR), as rapid manual panning can confuse the stabilization elements.
Set the camera to its highest continuous burst rate. Keep your eyes on the station through the optical viewfinder (or an attached dot-sight) and fire a constant stream of images as you smoothly pan along its trajectory. [1, 2, 3, 4]
Are you planning to shoot a nighttime flyover profile against the stars, or are you hoping to catch an ISS transit across the face of the Moon or Sun? I can give you the exact timing tools and precautions needed for solar safety if you choose transits.
When shooting the International Space Station (ISS) at night with a Nikon D780, TC-14E III, and the 200-500mm f/5.6 lens (totaling 700mm at f/8), you are hunting a highly specialized target. Because the ISS is only visible when the ground is dark but the station is still hit by the sun (dusk or dawn), it appears as an incredibly bright, fast-moving point of light. [1, 2, 3]
To pull detail out of that tiny dot rather than getting a generic white streak, configure your gear using the following steps:
1. Precise Planning
The ISS travels at 17,500 mph. You must know exactly when and where it will appear. [1]Tracking: Download the official NASA Spot the Station Mobile App (the old website notifications were officially deprecated).
Priority Passes: Only attempt to photograph passes where the maximum elevation is greater than 50 or 60 degrees. When it flies directly overhead, it is closest to you (about 250 miles/400 km away) with the absolute minimum amount of atmospheric distortion. [1, 2, 3]
2. Camera & Lens Configuration
Shutter Speed: 1/2000s to 1/3200s. This extreme speed is mandatory. Anything slower will turn the station's solar panels into a blurry line due to the orbital motion and your manual panning. [1]
Vibration Reduction (VR): Turn this completely OFF. Because you will be physically panning and tracking the station across the sky, VR will attempt to fight your movement, causing jerky frame jumps and blurred details.
3. Execution (The "Pre-Focus" Trick)
Because the sky is pitch black, your autofocus will completely fail. [1]
Use Live View: Turn on Live View on your D780, zoom in maximum using the digital magnifying glass button on the back of the camera, and manually rotate your focus ring until the star is a tiny, perfectly sharp pinprick of light.
Lock the Ring: Tape the focus ring down with gaffer tape so it doesn't budge. Switch the lens body physical switch to M (Manual).
Acquire and Shoot: Look through the optical viewfinder. As soon as the ISS emerges over the horizon, find it in your frame, track along with its path as smoothly as possible, and fire continuous, high-speed bursts. [1]
Tip: A heavy tripod head makes tracking a 700mm lens pointing straight up incredibly frustrating. Many satellite photographers prefer using a loose gimbal head or a sturdy monopod to pivot quickly as the station streaks overhead. [1]
Optical Performance
Teleconverters magnify both the subject and any flaws in the lens. While you will get 280-700mm of reach, users in forums like Backcountry Gallery report mixed results: the sharpness can become soft, especially for distant subjects or birds in flight. To achieve acceptable sharpness, you often need to stop the lens down further (e.g., to f/11), which requires bright, direct sunlight or a very high ISO. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
A Quick Note on the "Filing" Myth: Some photographers modify older Nikon teleconverters (like the TC-14E or TC-14E II) by filing off an alignment tab on the mount ring to force them onto incompatible lenses. Because your TC-14E III is an AF-S converter and matches the AF-S electronics of the 200-500mm, this modification is unnecessary and should not be done. Filing metal off a modern, expensive teleconverter permanently ruins its resale value and risks introducing metal shavings into your camera's sensor or lens elements. [1, 2, 3, 4]
For tips on how to get the best possible sharpness and settings while using teleconverters and long lenses:
Tips for Teleconverters
YouTube · Jason P. Odell Photography
The Nikon D780 handles the TC-14E III and 200-500mm f/5.6 combination better than older DSLRs, but you still face specific limitations depending on how you use it. [1, 2, 3]
Here is what you need to know about the performance and issues with this setup:
Viewfinder Shooting (DSLR Mode)
When shooting traditionally through the optical viewfinder, the camera uses its 51-point Multi-CAM 3500 II autofocus sensor. [1, 2, 3] Focus Point Limitation: Because the physical maximum aperture drops to f/8, you cannot use all 51 focus points. You are limited to 11 selectable focus points concentrated in the center of the frame. [1, 2]
For tips on how to get the best possible sharpness and settings while using teleconverters and long lenses:
Tips for Teleconverters
YouTube · Jason P. Odell Photography
The Nikon D780 handles the TC-14E III and 200-500mm f/5.6 combination better than older DSLRs, but you still face specific limitations depending on how you use it. [1, 2, 3]
Here is what you need to know about the performance and issues with this setup:
Viewfinder Shooting (DSLR Mode)
When shooting traditionally through the optical viewfinder, the camera uses its 51-point Multi-CAM 3500 II autofocus sensor. [1, 2, 3] Focus Point Limitation: Because the physical maximum aperture drops to f/8, you cannot use all 51 focus points. You are limited to 11 selectable focus points concentrated in the center of the frame. [1, 2]
Focus Hunting: Even though those 11 points are rated to focus down to f/8, the 200-500mm f/5.6 is inherently a slow-focusing lens. Adding a teleconverter means autofocus will hunt significantly in low light, shade, or heavy overcast. [1, 2, 3, 4]
——————————
Photographing the International Space Station (ISS) with a Nikon D780, TC-14E III, and the 200-500mm lens requires an approach completely different from normal photography. At 700mm, you are aiming to capture a tiny, hyper-bright target traveling at roughly 17,500 mph (28,000 km/h). [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Because the ISS moves across the sky in just a few minutes, you cannot rely on automated camera behavior.[1, 2]
1. Focus Setup (Critical Step)
You cannot use autofocus for this task. The f/8 restriction causes the camera to hunt, and by the time it locks on, the station will have passed. [1, 2, 3]
The Method: Switch your lens to Manual Focus (M). Before the ISS appears, look at a bright, distant object like the Moon or a bright star. [1, 2]
Fine-Tuning: Turn on Live View, zoom in digitally to the maximum level on your LCD screen, and manually turn the focus ring until the star or lunar crater is perfectly sharp. [1, 2]
Lock It: Once focused, do not touch the focus ring again. You can use a piece of gaffer tape to hold the focus ring securely in place so it does not shift when you point the camera upward.
2. Exposure Strategy (The "Sunny 16" Target)
Even though the sky is pitch black, the ISS is in full, direct sunlight. It acts like a highly reflective mirror made of solar panels and white modules. If you trust your camera's automatic light meter, it will see the dark sky, overexpose the shot, and turn the ISS into a blurry white streak. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Camera Mode: Manual Mode (M).
Aperture: f/8 (your maximum physical limit with the teleconverter).
Shutter Speed: 1/2500s to 1/3200s. This ultra-fast speed is required to freeze the orbital motion and eliminate motion blur at 700mm.
ISO: Start at ISO 400 or 800. Adjust slightly depending on how high the ISS is in the sky (it is brightest when directly overhead). [1, 2, 3]
3. Tracking and Capturing
There are two primary ways to physically capture the pass with your 700mm setup:
Method A: Transit Photography (Easiest & Sharpest)
Instead of chasing the station across the sky, wait for it to cross directly in front of the Moon or Sun (a transit).[1, 2, 3, 4, 5] Use tools like the Transit-Finder Website to calculate exactly when and where a transit will happen near you.
Frame the Moon, set your D780 to Continuous High (CH) drive mode, and hold down the shutter button a few seconds before the exact calculated transit time. [1, 2, 3, 4]
Method B: Manual Tracking (Requires Practice)
If you want to track it during a standard night pass, a heavy tripod head will restrict your movement too much. Loosen your tripod head completely or use a sturdy monopod.
Turn off the lens's Vibration Reduction (VR), as rapid manual panning can confuse the stabilization elements.
Set the camera to its highest continuous burst rate. Keep your eyes on the station through the optical viewfinder (or an attached dot-sight) and fire a constant stream of images as you smoothly pan along its trajectory. [1, 2, 3, 4]
Are you planning to shoot a nighttime flyover profile against the stars, or are you hoping to catch an ISS transit across the face of the Moon or Sun? I can give you the exact timing tools and precautions needed for solar safety if you choose transits.
——————————
When shooting the International Space Station (ISS) at night with a Nikon D780, TC-14E III, and the 200-500mm f/5.6 lens (totaling 700mm at f/8), you are hunting a highly specialized target. Because the ISS is only visible when the ground is dark but the station is still hit by the sun (dusk or dawn), it appears as an incredibly bright, fast-moving point of light. [1, 2, 3]
To pull detail out of that tiny dot rather than getting a generic white streak, configure your gear using the following steps:
1. Precise Planning
The ISS travels at 17,500 mph. You must know exactly when and where it will appear. [1]Tracking: Download the official NASA Spot the Station Mobile App (the old website notifications were officially deprecated).
Priority Passes: Only attempt to photograph passes where the maximum elevation is greater than 50 or 60 degrees. When it flies directly overhead, it is closest to you (about 250 miles/400 km away) with the absolute minimum amount of atmospheric distortion. [1, 2, 3]
2. Camera & Lens Configuration
Aperture: f/8 (wide open with this combination).
Shutter Speed: 1/2000s to 1/3200s. This extreme speed is mandatory. Anything slower will turn the station's solar panels into a blurry line due to the orbital motion and your manual panning. [1]
ISO: 800 to 1600. Adjust based on the pass brilliance. If it passes directly overhead, it is at its brightest, allowing you to drop down to ISO 800 to keep the image clean. [1]
Vibration Reduction (VR): Turn this completely OFF. Because you will be physically panning and tracking the station across the sky, VR will attempt to fight your movement, causing jerky frame jumps and blurred details.
Drive Mode: Continuous High (CH).
3. Execution (The "Pre-Focus" Trick)
Because the sky is pitch black, your autofocus will completely fail. [1]
Find Focus First: Fifteen minutes before the pass, aim your camera at a bright star, planet, or the horizon moon. [1]
Use Live View: Turn on Live View on your D780, zoom in maximum using the digital magnifying glass button on the back of the camera, and manually rotate your focus ring until the star is a tiny, perfectly sharp pinprick of light.
Lock the Ring: Tape the focus ring down with gaffer tape so it doesn't budge. Switch the lens body physical switch to M (Manual).
Acquire and Shoot: Look through the optical viewfinder. As soon as the ISS emerges over the horizon, find it in your frame, track along with its path as smoothly as possible, and fire continuous, high-speed bursts. [1]
Tip: A heavy tripod head makes tracking a 700mm lens pointing straight up incredibly frustrating. Many satellite photographers prefer using a loose gimbal head or a sturdy monopod to pivot quickly as the station streaks overhead. [1]
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Previously I have done some Moon Photography using the manual focus Nikon Reflex-Nikkor • C 500mm f/8, the Nikkor ED IF 300mm f4.5 AIS and the AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f3.5-5.6 G ED VR FX. Below are a few images and notes detailing my experiences and the progress I have made. It’s fun and a good challenge that also produces results that I can actually compare and contrast my progress.
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| Simple Auto Focus with Live View (no magnification or focus peaking on screen) This above is the first image from the new to me AF-S Nikkor 200-500 f5.6 G ED VR. I did not purchase this lens for astrophotography. The primary focus of this lens, for me is landscape and wildlife. It took about 5 mins to set up the camera and lens on this attempt. I know my camera far better however the image could be improved upon by enlarging on the display and using manual focus with focus peaking. This was an opportunistic picture grab and not a dedicated photo shoot studying my notes. I’m learning the camera and lenses by doing it on my own with notes I have generated as I have posted here. ——————————   This was my second try. I spent about an hour figuring out how to make the display show exactly what the image will be. Enlarged the image on the display, focus it sharp. Optimize white balance, color, aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and more. I’m learning by doing. Reading, watching videos. Anyway the below is last night first try, above is from tonight, second try. It’s a good lesson as I’m learning the menus, sub menus, control over my digital camera, photography.  Thirtieth image with the Nikon D780 with AF-S NIKKOR 28-300mm f3.5-5.6 G ED VR FX  I thought it would be easy. Simple as changing a few settings. What it taught me is that I don’t know how to quickly change basic camera controls. I got close but the image is not sharp. The above picture is the result of about an hour and a half of figuring it all out. How to put it in manual mode, set aperture to f11, shutter speed to 1/125 sec, iso to 100, VR (Vibration Reduction) off, Auto Focus off, Manual Focus on, Live View on… There are other deeper settings that I had to adjust. And now back out and place the camera back to its original settings. But I’m really enjoying learning basic function, learning how to take pictures of the moon. Next attempt will be much quicker and I’ll focus on a sharper image.  |
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